I learned how to frame with 2-by sticks, and in those days the idea of framing with steel was about as foreign to me as speaking Russian. But after setting up shop in New York City, fire codes and commercial building practices left me with no alternative, so now I speak Russian.

We're light-gauge-steel framers. This means we erect partitions and ceilings in existing spaces. No walls are load-bearing; instead, they exist to support Sheetrock, millwork, and openings.

Tools. The two most-used tools are tin (aviator) snips and a cordless screwgun. You also need a chalk line; dry-cut metal-cutting chop or circ saw; framing square; 2-, 4-, and 6-foot levels; 30-foot and 100-foot tapes; a dot laser like the Pacific Laser PLS3 or PLS5 for shooting plumb; and a rotary laser like the RoboLaser for leveling. You need a powder-actuated tool (PAT) for shooting track. And a black marker (we use Sharpies) is a must–pencils don't write on steel.

Selecting Gauge. Do yourself a favor and select 20-gauge stock, most likely available at a commercial building materials supplier. While harder to find–and more expensive–than lighter 25-gauge material (usually available at big boxes), 20-gauge is a must. It has better holding power for screws and doesn't twist, deform, or bend nearly as easily. It's harder to cut with snips, but dry-cut saws sail through it. Twenty-five–gauge is OK for a temporary wall, but unacceptable on my sites as installed framing.

Photo: Erik Elwell A powder-actuated tool is vital for connecting track to concrete.

Plating and Layout. Laying out a steel frame is similar to wood framing: Pull dimensions from control points, square-up lines, snap wall locations, and cut plates, but that's pretty much all that's the same. After snapping the floor (generally concrete), we cut plates–called track–using a dry-cut metal-cutting chop saw. Next, we fasten plates using PATs with washered nails, because plain nails can blow through.

Track is U-shaped and usually comes 1-1/2, 2-1/2, and 3-5/8 inches wide in 10-foot lengths with 1-1/4-inch flanges. With the bottom track down, we shoot plumb up from it with a laser to the ceiling for the top track. We snap lines and install the top track.

Studs and Fastening. The key to getting studs up quickly and easily is to cut them about 1/4 inch short; with 1-1/4-inch flanges on the top and bottom track, there's definitely wiggle room. The studs should slide easily into the track, not be bound up, and they should hang from the screws. Studs that are too tight can twist out of shape.

Photo: Erik Elwell A dry-cut metal-cutting saw makes cutting metal as easy as cutting wood.

With studs set at 16-inch centers, we screw the track to the stud with screws called zippies (see "Zippies," right). Since each stud is only 1-1/4 inches thick, it's important that the stud that catches the end of the Sheetrock be in the right spot. One trick is to not screw these studs to the track at all and slide them into the right spot as needed while you're hanging drywall. Once you see where the drywall breaks on the stud, you can easily fasten it with four screws–top, bottom, and both sides. And because there's no load-bearing to deal with, these connections are more than
adequate.

Openings. When framing a standard 2'6x6'8 door or other opening, I use track for the header. After the jack studs are in place, I cut a section of track to the right dimension–plus 1-1/4 inches on each end. Cut out the web (the wide part of the track) 1-1/4 inches on each end. This leaves the sides as tabs, which you screw into the studs. Face the track up to accept cripples.

Photo: Erik Elwell Install adhesive gasket on the studs to increase sound attenuation.

For most rough openings, we hold the framing back an additional 3/4 inch on each side to allow for 3/4-inch plywood to be screwed to the steel. Hinge-screws and trim hold much better to wood than steel. The thicker the gauge of metal, the better the holding power and the stiffer the wall or jamb. For this reason, I often switch to 16-gauge in these applications. I still add plywood no matter what for hinge screws. For large openings and heavy doors, we use fire-treated 2-by to build a beefier header, on top of which we screw track to accept cripples.

Photo: Erik Elwell Create tabs on the track and face-screw them to the king studs for headers.

For cabinets, countertops, or other heavy items to be hung from the wall, we either switch to 16-gauge studs, sister-up fire-treated 2-by blocking to our standard studs, or apply 16-gauge flat stock horizontally to the face of the steel framing with zippies. All three methods work fine and are usually determined by the architect based on application.

Soffits, Ceilings, and Knee Walls. For soffits, small drop ceilings, or boxing out something like an HVAC chase, I screw track to the studs, usually after the Sheetrock is hung. This makes for a smooth attachment surface. With the track fastened to the studs, fill in the soffit or ceiling as if you were building a horizontal wall. For areas with more than a 4-foot span, we use black iron and pencil rods, but that's another article.

Photo: Erik Elwell Soffits are best framed after the drywall is hung to give a smooth connection point.

For knee walls and other short-wall applications like kitchen peninsulas or half-height office walls, steel framing shines. Fasten the track securely–that's what gives the wall much of its stability. Cut a corresponding top track. Cut studs roughly 1/4 inch short. Screw the track to the studs following a string or a level. If the floor is slightly out of level or wavy, it won't matter because the studs and track float where you want them before you screw them together.

Zippies

Photo: Erik Elwell

Zippies are 7/16-inch pan-head screws that hold steel frames together. The only drawback is that they sit about 1/8 inch proud of the framing. There are two methods to deal with this: You can scrap zippies and use a crimping tool that binds track and stud together; this works OK, but it's slow, doesn't hold as well as using zippies, and only works dependably on 25-gauge stock. It's best to try a second method: Compensate for the screw heads' thickness by applying a strip of Shadwell 143 Integrity Gasket foam to the studs and tracks–between screws. The foam strips even the playing field and enhance the sound attenuation of the walls dramatically. I apply the foam to all framing whenever possible. It's a little pricey due to extra material and labor costs, but in my opinion it's worth it. There is no real substitute for a flat–and quiet–wall.

–Erik Elwell owns Thompson Construction, a high-end residential and light commercial remodeling firm in New York City.